The
Gender Blur of the Aesthetic Body
Before
the late 19th century, male and female figures are portrayed with
distinct gender features that correspond to their sex. However, with
the rise of the Aestheticism movement, this boundary of gender
distinction starts to blur. As J.B. Bullen discussed in his essay,
the Aestheticism “questioned the distinction between male and
female, between masculinity and femininity, and between sexual
differences.” With Edward Burne-Jones as the most prominent figure,
paintings like Days
of Creation
became an iconic style of the Aestheticism, where it followed
Whistler’s theory of “art for art’s sake” that values sensual
response over the traditional moral message.
This
gender ambiguity aesthetic from the Aestheticism movement can still
be found in the modern fashion industry today. Fashion photography
portrays models in the gray area of gender representation, two
examples of such hermaphroditism type models are: Andrej Pejic and
Erika Linder. Andrej Pejic, a 22 year old male model, poses for
women’s wear because of his neutral features, whilst similar
neutral gender traits enable Erika Linder to pose for menswear. Both
models, resembling the figures of Burne-Jones, do not display
distinct gender features, therefore, portrays gender ambiguity as
neither masculine nor feminine.
Griselda
Pollock’s fragment theory assists in illustrating the fashion
photography through emphasizing the idea that “this is not a female
(male) figure, but a fragment, ‘corps morcele.’” In other
words, only certain body parts of the model are highlighted in the
photographs; in this case, their faces and backs. By doing so, a
frame is drawn around them to create an image that draws attention to
only certain parts of the body and isolates the rest. This type of
rendering is also seen in Rossetti’s Bocca Bacciata, which Pollock
discussed in her essay as an example of “where the part stands for
the whole.”
With
the gender ambiguity aesthetic view of the Aestheticism movement and
the fragmentation framing, the fashion industry adopts a new type of
portrayal in their presentation of fashion. There are many reasons
behind the rise of such trend, but I think Henry James’ statement,
addressed in Bullen’s essay might be a good conclusive
reason–“…they [the figures] are sublimely sexless, and ready to
assume whatever charm of manhood or maidenhood the imagination
desires.”
Reference
J.B.
Bullen, “Burnes-Jones and the Aesthetic Body,” The Pre-Raphaelite
Body: Fear and Desire in Painting, Poetry and Criticism, 2005.
Griselda
Pollock, “Woman as Sign: Pyschoanalytic Readings,” Vision and
Difference: Femininity, Feminism and the History of Art, 1988.